Vitamin C vs. Stabilised Vitamin C: how to choose the best for your skin
Vitamin C is one of the most valued actives in skincare for its antioxidant power, brightening effect, and collagen-stimulating properties. However, not all forms of Vitamin C are the same: there is a significant difference between pure Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its stabilised versions, which offer greater tolerance and sustained efficacy.
In this article, we explain what distinguishes each type, when to choose one over the other, and which The Today Project products contain Vitamin C in its most effective and skin-respectful form.
What does Vitamin C do for the skin?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by pollution, sunlight, and other environmental aggressors. Its most notable benefits include:
✓ Brightens skin and evens out tone.
✓ Stimulates collagen synthesis, improving firmness and elasticity.
✓ Reduces the appearance of dark spots and signs of fatigue.
✓ Prevents premature ageing.
However, its most common form—ascorbic acid—is highly unstable: it oxidises easily upon contact with air, heat, or light, losing efficacy and potentially causing irritation on sensitive skin.
What is Stabilised Vitamin C?
Instead of pure ascorbic acid—known for its instability and irritation potential—The Today Project uses several stabilised forms of Vitamin C, including 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. These next-generation derivatives have been shown to be:
Highly stable against light and oxygen.
Gentler and better tolerated by sensitive skin.
Capable of penetrating effectively into the skin, where they convert to active Vitamin C.
Effective in inhibiting melanin production, stimulating collagen, and providing antioxidant protection.
This new-generation derivative is backed by scientific research, as demonstrated by a PubMed study (24160291) supporting its efficacy in treating uneven tone, enhancing radiance, and addressing skin ageing. Additionally, it has a strong safety profile according to the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review).
Types of Stabilised Vitamin C and their Benefits
While The Today Project uses advanced stabilised forms like 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, here is an overview of the main types of stabilised vitamin C used in cosmetic formulations and their unique properties:
1. Ascorbyl Glucoside
Structure: Ascorbic acid bound to glucose.
Stability: Very stable in water-based formulations.
Skin Activation: Enzymatically converted into active vitamin C in the skin.
Benefits: Brightening, antioxidant, collagen-boosting with low irritation.
Ideal for: Sensitive skin and daily use.
2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
Structure: Water-soluble salt form of ascorbic acid.
Stability: High stability in aqueous formulas and light exposure.
Skin Activation: Converts into ascorbic acid once absorbed.
Benefits: Antioxidant, anti-acne, soothing.
Bonus: Known for antimicrobial activity against P. acnes.
3. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
Structure: Magnesium salt of ascorbic acid phosphate.
Stability: Very stable at neutral pH.
Skin Activation: Slowly releases vitamin C.
Benefits: Brightening, hydrating, anti-inflammatory.
Note: Often used in products for rosacea or sensitive skin.
4. 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Structure: Ethylated form of vitamin C — lipid and water-soluble.
Stability: Highly stable; resists oxidation.
Skin Activation: Active form; doesn’t require enzymatic conversion.
Benefits: Potent brightening, collagen support, antioxidant.
Bonus: Penetrates skin deeply due to amphiphilic structure.
Note: Considered one of the most effective next-gen derivatives.
5. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP)
Structure: Lipophilic ester of vitamin C (oil-soluble).
Stability: Very high, ideal for oil-based and anhydrous formulas.
Skin Activation: Penetrates deeply, slowly converts into active C.
Benefits: Fights oxidative stress, evens skin tone, boosts barrier repair.
Ideal for: Serums and facial oils for dry, mature, or reactive skin.
Important considerations
Stabilised derivatives are less potent than pure ascorbic acid but more stable and better tolerated.
Efficacy depends on formulation, pH, concentration, and the delivery system, not just the molecule itself.
Some forms (like 3-O-ethyl and VC-IP) are active on their own, while others need conversion inside the skin.
Which type of Vitamin C does your skin need?
For sensitive or reactive skin, it is best to opt for stabilised forms of Vitamin C, as they are gentler and less acidic. Combination or oily skin benefits from formulas with stabilised Vitamin C in light textures or serums. For dull skin or hyperpigmentation, a combination of Vitamin C with antioxidants such as squalane or niacinamide enhances its brightening effect. Finally, mature skin benefits most from formulas that combine stabilised Vitamin C with peptides or hyaluronic acid for added firmness and hydration.
The Today Project’s approach: clean efficacy with Stabilised Vitamin C
At The Today Project, we use stabilised Vitamin C in formulas developed to brighten, protect, and regenerate without sensitising the skin. Key products in our collection incorporate this active with a base of clean, sustainable, and sensorial ingredients. Our products with Stabilised Vit C include:
Hyal + Vit C Serum: Facial serum with hyaluronic acid and stabilised Vitamin C, ideal for skin seeking deep hydration, radiance, and a more even texture. Fast-absorbing with a lightweight finish.
Argan + Vit C Glow Body Oil: Nourishing body oil combining stabilised Vitamin C with cold-pressed argan oil, perfect for restoring luminosity and elasticity to body skin. A conscious glow ritual with a natural aroma.
RESURFACING Glow Cream: Refining cream formulated with stabilised vitamin C, gentle exfoliating complexes, and botanical actives to renew skin texture, unify tone, and reveal a natural glow. Perfect for supporting daily cell turnover with respectful efficacy.
SHINE FREE Age Defying Cream: Lightweight facial cream with stabilised vitamin C and biomimetic peptides, designed to balance oil production, smooth fine lines, and enhance luminosity without clogging pores. Ideal for those seeking an age-defying matte finish with clean, intelligent formulation.
RESURFACING Eye Care: Advanced eye treatment with stabilised vitamin C, peptides, and niacinamide to brighten dark circles, smooth fine lines, and revitalise the delicate eye area. A targeted formula designed to illuminate and restore with clean precision.
RESURFACING Glow Face Serum: High-performance serum with stabilised vitamin C, exfoliating acids, and botanical antioxidants that refine skin texture, even out tone, and boost radiance. Lightweight and fast-absorbing for a conscious daily glow ritual.
REPAIRING Rose Hip & CICA Hand Cream: Nourishing hand cream combining stabilised vitamin C with rosehip oil and centella asiatica, designed to repair, soothe, and protect. Ideal for restoring elasticity and softness to hands exposed to daily environmental stress.
In Summary
Stabilised Vitamin C represents an intelligent evolution of one of skincare’s most iconic actives. If you seek efficacy without irritation, with lightweight textures and greater stability, this is your ally.
At The Today Project, we formulate with stabilised Vitamin C to ensure visible, lasting results, respecting both your skin and the planet.
