Why We Don’t Use Polycyclic Musks-

Including Galaxolide/HHCB and Tonalide/AHTN 

Polycyclic musks helped shape modern perfumery. They are powerful, cost-efficient, and widely used to create a long-lasting “clean musk” trail.

At The Today Project, we choose not to use polycyclic musks—including Galaxolide (HHCB) and Tonalide (AHTN).
Because perfumery evolves—and so do our formulation standards.

What are polycyclic musks?                                        

Polycyclic musks are synthetic fragrance materials designed to mimic the smooth, soft profile of natural musk. They’re commonly used to add diffusion, cleanliness, and persistence in perfumes, detergents, and home fragrances.

Why we avoid them                               

1) They are environmentally persistent

Multiple studies and monitoring programs have reported polycyclic musks in the environment, largely due to widespread use and continuous release into wastewater systems.

2) They can bioaccumulate

Human biomonitoring research has detected these musks in human adipose tissue and human milk, which indicates long-term exposure and potential accumulation pathways.

3) They have been detected in breast milk

This is one of the most cited red flags in the scientific discussion: polycyclic musks (including HHCB and AHTN) have been reported in breast milk samples in different populations.

Important nuance: detection does not automatically mean harm. But it does tell us something about systemic exposure and real-world persistence, which matters when safer modern alternatives exist.

What the studies actually conclude (evidence takeaways)                              

Here are the “efficacy” conclusions—meaning what the studies demonstrate convincingly, not what marketing suggests:

• Rimkus & Wolf (Chemosphere, 1996) documented measurable levels of HHCB and AHTN in human fat and referenced detection in human milk, supporting the idea of human body burden for these compounds.

• Lignell et al. (2008) found HHCB and AHTN in mother’s milk and reported associations with personal use of perfumed products—an exposure signal consistent with everyday use patterns.

• Yin et al. (2012) reported that use of perfumed products was positively associated with HHCB/AHTN concentrations in breast milk, while also noting limitations (e.g., sample size) and calling for further investigation.

• Environmental monitoring work shows these musks can pass through systems into waterways and may be detected across compartments (water/sludge/air), reinforcing persistence and continuous emission concerns.

“Are there safer alternatives today?”                                             

Yes.

Perfumery has moved forward. Modern musk systems—especially macrocyclic musks and newer materials—can achieve sensuality and longevity with different environmental and toxicological profiles (and far more current safety frameworks).

So our choice is simple:

If a material is non-essential, persistent, bioaccumulative in exposure signals, and increasingly under regulatory scrutiny—
we prefer not to build our fragrances around it.

This is not a claim that every polycyclic musk is “dangerous.”
It’s a formulation philosophy: do not introduce avoidable uncertainty when better tools exist.

Regulatory update: Is Galaxolide (HHCB) “in an Omnibus” and about to be banned?

Here’s what is confirmed from official/public sources:

✅ What is happening

• ANSES (France’s health & safety agency) has publicly stated it is proposing a harmonised EU classification for Galaxolide (HHCB) as Reproductive Toxicity Category 1B (H360Df) under the EU CLP Regulation.

• ANSES also notes residues have been found in human biological samples, including breast milk and adipose tissue, and the dossier entered public consultation via ECHA.

• IFRA reported that ECHA’s Risk Assessment Committee working group discussed the proposal and expected adoption steps (industry perspective, not a regulator).

What could happen next (practical consequences)

If HHCB ultimately receives an EU-harmonised CMR 1B classification under CLP:

1. Cosmetics impact (high likelihood of restriction/ban unless exemption):
   Under the Cosmetics Regulation, CMR Cat. 1A/1B substances are generally not allowed unless a derogation pathway applies (typically involving SCCS and strict criteria). Cosmetics Europe’s Omnibus discussion highlights this exact mechanism and why it can remove ingredients from market.

2. Industry reformulation pressure:
   Even before a final ban, the combination of public classification proposals + consultation + anticipated timelines often leads brands to phase out proactively to avoid sudden reformulation and supply-chain disruption. (This is an inference based on how CLP → Cosmetics interactions work; the mechanism itself is described by Cosmetics Europe.)

3. Labelling/market perception shift:
   A harmonised reproductive toxicity classification typically changes how an ingredient is perceived across the value chain (from ingredient suppliers to finished goods), even if transitional periods exist.

Bottom line:
HHCB is under active EU regulatory scrutiny for reprotox classification, and that such a classification could lead to cosmetics restrictions via the CLP→Cosmetics mechanism.

References

1. Rimkus, G.G., & Wolf, M. (1996).Polycyclic musk fragrances in human adipose tissue and human milk.Chemosphere, 33(10), 2033–2043.
   Link: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/0045653596003219

2. Lignell, S. et al. (2008).Temporal trends of synthetic musk compounds in mother’s milk and associations with personal use of perfumed products. (PDF)
   Link: https://web.vscht.cz/~hajslovj/publications/lignell_musk_milk_est_vol42_p6743-6748.pdf

3. Yin, J. et al. (2012).The occurrence of synthetic musks in human breast milk…Chemosphere.
   Link: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0045653511013609

4. Wombacher, W.D. et al. (2009).Synthetic musk fragrances in a conventional drinking water treatment plant. (Open access)
   Link: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2790179/

5. ANSES (2025).ANSES proposes classifying galaxolide (HHCB) as toxic for reproduction under EU CLP.
   Link: https://www.anses.fr/en/content/anses-proposes-classifying-galaxolide-toxic-reproduction-european-clp-regulation

6. Cosmetics Europe (2025).European Commission’s Omnibus Proposal – modernising the EU cosmetics regulatory framework (Article 15/CMR interactions).
   Link: https://cosmeticseurope.eu/news-events/european-commissions-omnibus-proposal-a-step-towards-modernising-the-eu-cosmetics-regulatory-framework-while-keeping-safety-as-the-priority/